Exploring Brisbane, City Hall tour, and Theatre

Thursday April 4 was a beautiful day. Sunny with a high of 28C. We went to the Tourist Information office at 10:30 a.m. for a free tour. The office is located at the front of the beautiful Regent Theatre. The Regent Theatre was the first and only American-style movie theatre to be built in Queensland. It opened in 1929 and originally had 2500 seats. In the late 1970s, it was redeveloped into four cinemas. It retained the grand foyer. In 1992, the building received Heritage designation. In November 2014, the Visitor Information Centre moved into the entrance hall and grand foyer. The cinemas have been closed for a number of years. It is unclear what will happen to that part of the Theatre.

Our guide, Tina, started the tour with the history of the Regent Theatre. The lot had been acquired in the 1850s by Patrick Mayne (1824-1865), a wealthy business man and a major player in Brisbane's history. Its ownership passed to two of his children (James and Mary) who entered into a lease with Hoysts Theatres Ltd. After they died, their estate was left to the University of Queensland as the sole beneficiary.

The Grand Foyer of the Regent Theatre where our tour started.

Our guide also talked about the history of Brisbane. While the region had long been occupied by a number of aboriginal tribes, it wasn't until 1799 that Brisbane was first explored by Matthew Flinders. The town was conceived as a penal colony for British convicts from Sydney and was established as such in 1824. It was a 'prison within a prison'- a settlement to which recidivist convicts could be sent as punishment. Over 20 years, thousands of convicts passed through the penal colony. The area was opened up for free settlers in 1838. The convict colony eventually closed. In 1859, the Municipality of Brisbane was proclaimed and Queensland was also formally established as a self-governing colony of Great Britain, separate from New South Wales.

Tina pointed out the MacArthur Central building which General Douglas MacArthur used as the Allied forces' South West Pacific Area Headquarters from July 1942 to November 1944. There is a small museum in the building. The city became a temporary home to about 300,000 American servicemen during those years, almost doubling the population of Brisbane.

This building housed General MacArthur during WWII - built between 1930-34

Tina also told us that streets in one direction in the heart of the city were named after Queens and the perpendicular streets were named William, George, Albert and Edward after Queen Victoria's grandfather, father, husband and son.

We went into the chapel of the Cathedral of St. Stephen and later into the Cathedral itself. It is the largest Catholic Church in Brisbane.

The Cathedral

The chapel

The chapel had an amazing wooden statue of Mary MacKillop (1842-1909), an Australian nun who is Australia's only saint (2010).

Mary MacKillop

With wooden structures representing huts of the poor whom she helped

Plaques in the pavement with her story

Our guide pointed out an unused church bell that sits in the garden behind the chapel. Apparently, it was too large for the tower and thus remains unused.

We went into the Cathedral and saw three stained glass windows which read In Memoriam Isaac and William Mayne. Patrick Mayne (1824-1865) was a wealthy business man originally from Ireland who came to New South Wales in 1841. He was Catholic and in 1849 he married Mary (1826-1889), a Protestant also from Ireland. They had six children, three raised as Catholics and three as Protestants. He contributed to the building of St. Stephen's Cathedral. He also was an alderman.

Patrick Mayne had mental health issues as did one of his children (Isaac). A doctor in the family convinced them that none of the children should marry or have children as they did not want the mental health issues passed on.

Dedicated to two of the Mayne children (the Catholic ones)

We then stopped at Customs House built in 1889.

Customs House - 1889

'Advance Australia' - Kangaroo and Emu not facing each other

The 'Advance Australia' motto and Kangaroo and Emu symbols of Australia were placed on the Custom's House in 1889 before Australia became independent in 1901. The kangaroo and emu are not facing each other as they are today in Australia's coat of arms (first granted in 1908).

Our guide then took us up to the highest floor of an office building. She calls ahead and if they are not using the floor, the tour can go up to the top. We had a great view from the top especially given the clear day outside.

View from the top-- one building has the Brisbane River design on the outside

The Brisbane River

Another view with surrounding hills

View of Captain Cook Bridge

We took an escalator down from the 4th floor and saw panels of plexiglass with a forest design and flying koalas. Tina said new buildings are required to install public art. This piece was by an aboriginal artist and had lots of different animals.

Flying koala in the forest

We passed Koala House with the large koala on top.

Koala House

Expensive apartments in part of old Post office

Our guide liked a statue honouring soldiers from WWII who served and died during the South West Pacific Campaign (1942-1945). The inscription reads: "This memorial depicts a wounded Australian soldier descending the Kokoda Trail assisted by a strong, dependable Papua New Guinean leading him to safety. They are being passed by a fresh, determined soldier resolute in the task ahead."

The back inscription reads: This memorial commemorates those Australians and their Allies who died or served in the South West Pacific Campaign between 1942-45. It was unveiled on August 29, 1992.

Our guide pointed out a series of bronze animals entwined in a number of light fixtures, which we never would have noticed.

A possum

Flying fox or a bat

A snake

We also passed a "fake metal tree" in one of the malls. Our guide said that piece was to remember similar "fake trees" put up by the Australians and their allies in WWI to lure the enemy.

We walked through the Brisbane Arcade, which had wonderful Art Deco stained glass windows. The Brisbane Arcade was opened in March 1924. It was built for Dr. James Mayne and his sister Mary Emelia Mayne. Their father, Patrick Mayne had purchased the property as two adjoining allotments in 1853 and 1854. Since the deaths of the Mayne siblings, the Arcade has been operated by a board of trustees with operating proceeds benefitting the University of Queensland Mayne Medical School.

Brisbane Arcade

Art Deco stained glass

After the tour, we went for lunch at Felix for Goodness, a great foodie and coffee spot recommended by a few folks. It is located in an alley. We shared an avocado smash on sourdough with beets/ dukkah. Lots of the usual brunch items.

Late lunch at Felix for Goodness

For Goodness

We then went to City Hall to take a 2:30 p.m. tour. As we had about 25 minutes to spare, we went to the Museum of Brisbane (MOB) located on the third floor. It is a wonderful modern museum with rotating exhibits and small permanent exhibit about the history of the city. (Why oh why doesn't Toronto have such a museum??)

Outside of City Hall with great clock tower

In the Museum, there was a wonderful video introduction to the City's history and then a few rooms showing early aboriginal settlement in the area and artefacts of European settlement. There was a large portrait of General Sir Thomas Brisbane after whom the city was named. He was born at Brisbane House near Largs Scotland and was Governor of New South Wales from 1821-25.

Picture of General Sir Thomas Brisbane (1773-1860). He was also an astronomer.

We then met for the City Hall tour, led by Katrina. The building was constructed between 1920 to 1930. In 2009, it was discovered that the building suffered from severe structural problems (the foundations were sinking). After a three-year restoration, the building was re-opened in April 2013.

Entrance to City Hall

Our guide pointed out the different marbles used in construction. Carrara marble from Tuscany was used on the stairway. She pointed out the stains from cigarette smoke on the marble.

Katrina pointed out the different marbles used in construction.

Unfortunately, the auditorium was being used and we could not see it. She took us into the basement to see one of the old foundations that was replaced during the 2010-13 renovations.

Old foundation with "concrete cancer".

Our guide pointed out a preserved portion of the urinal wall, which was found during the foundation renovation. It had the names of Australian soldiers and sailors and American soldiers from WWII with their identity numbers. Katrina told us that a former tour guide did her dissertation on the signatures, researching all the visible numbers. She found that the men behind the 150 signatures she identified had survived the war!!

The signatures on the urinal wall

After our tour of City Hall, we went back to the Museum to see an exhibit called: The Designers' Guide: Easton Pearson Archive. It featured the work of Pamela Easton and Lydia Pearson who had a 28 year partnership (1998-2016). Easton and Pearson had begun their partnership in 1989 and they established their first store in 1992.

They worked under different labels until settling on Easton Pearson in 1998.Their distinctive look created a cult following with the label selling in 140 stores in 24 countries. The exhibit had 200 garments accompanied by sketches, interviews and photographs. The two designers created their own textile designs.

The exhibition noted that "a Brisbane aesthetic permeates their collections in the form of glistening palm trees and laid back summer wear, that on closer inspection showcases the most intricate of detailing."

The label's entire 3300 piece archive was bought by Dr. Paul Eliadis and gifted to the Museum of Brisbane in 2017.

From a video showing their collaboration

Ferra T, Eden belt, Mogo skirt Spring Summer 2010

Karwa top, Pier skirt Cruise 2014

Astrid dress Spring Summer 2012

Pommery dress Spring Summer 2011

Jamoa jacket and Tarma dress Spring Summer 2007

A smaller room featured a collection of Easton Pearson's most vibrant designs. The mural was designed by Brisbane painter and illustrator Stephen Mok who had collaborated with Easton Pearson multiple times.

Runway coat, open bodice, stranded pant Spring Summer 2013 and Pays dress Spring Summer 2008

Kaffe shirt Cruise 2013 and Stranded pant Spring Summer 201

Phoebe dress Spring Summer 2007

We wandered some more and then decided to cross the Victoria Bridge to go to South Bank, the cultural precinct where we had tickets to a play at 7:30 p.m. The original Victoria Bridge was built in 1865. It was made of timber (called the Brisbane Bridge at that time) and collapsed in 1867 from woodworm infestation. In 1874, a new steel bridge opened and was named the Victoria Bridge after Queen Victoria, the reigning monarch at that time. It was destroyed in the 1893 flood. It was rebuilt and opened in 1897. In 1969, the current bridge opened and the 1897 bridge was demolished except for its southern abutment.

Crossing the Victoria Bridge-- a bit windy at this point

Looking back at the new buildings

At the end of the bridge, there was the Victoria Bridge abutment, which had a plaque honouring Hector Vasyli, an 11 year old accidentally killed on June 9, 1918 on the bridge by a passing vehicle during a celebratory procession of returning WWI troops.

Bridge abutment with plaque

Once we crossed the bridge, we checked out the iconic Brisbane sign. The original sign was commissioned by the Queensland Government for the G20 Leaders' Summit in November 2014. A new sign was opened in November 2015, to honour the original art piece as a legacy of the G20.
Each letter is designed by a different community group. The name of the group is on each letter.

Iconic Brisbane sign

Photo op--- excellent idea re having the letters designed by community groups

We noticed this large figure emerging from the Queensland Museum. It is promoting an exhibit called : NASA: A Human Adventure.

Queensland Museum

We went for an early pre-theatre dinner at Maeve, a newish wine bar and restaurant recommended to us.

We shared a piece of porchetta and a green salad

We then headed a few blocks away to the Queensland Theatre to see Hydra, a wonderful play written by Sue Smith. It dealt with the iconic Australian literary couple, George Johnston (1912-1970) and Charmian Clift (1923-1969) who moved to Hydra in 1956. They were both writers but their marriage became enmeshed in a crisis fuelled by alcohol, jealousy, poverty and ill- health (Johnston contracted tuberculosis). Leonard Cohen stayed for a while in their house when he moved to Hydra in the early 1960s-he is only mentioned once briefly in the play.

Johnston and Clift ultimately returned to Australia in 1964 after the success of Johnston's semi- autobiographical novel My Brother Jack, which Clift helped 'mid-wife'. They had three children and the play is narrated by one of them (the poet Martin Johnston (b. 1947- who died in 1990 of alcohol related causes). Charmian Clift, who wrote a number of books and had a well-loved column in a Sydney newspaper after their return to Australia, and who also was an alcoholic, committed suicide in 1969.

The script and production was excellent. Alain and I had been to Hydra a few years ago and the island has not changed much from the 1960s as there are still no cars allowed. We saw Leonard Cohen's house (his children still summer there), and can picture the life the Australians would have had there. It is a wonderful story of the personal and professional journey of Johnston and Clift.

Unfortunately, the lead actress had food poisoning and the assistant director (who is also an actress) took over her role. The Director came out at the beginning of the play and announced the change. Merlynn Tong did a very good job, as she was very familiar with the play, but she had to hold the script, which was a bit distracting. At the end, the audience gave her enthusiastic applause and she was in tears. The cast was incredibly supportive.